| STAGE 8. VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO - O CEBREIRO |
This stage is a pleasure, both for the view and the effort. It’s long and scattered with various towns. Pilgrims in other times had to suffer the taxes and tolls imposed by local lords, which had to be paid to pass through determined territories. As if that wasn’t enough, they were obliged to pass through the Valcarce River’s lowlands, which made it easier for violent robbers to ambush them. Today, we only have to struggle with ourselves and the ascent that goes from Herrerías on. However, if it’s too difficult for us to reach the Cebreiro stopping place, a bothersome, difficult ascent due to the wind that whips around these stopping places, we can spend the night in any one of the lodges that we find before entering the Galician community. The first part of the stage goes through the narrow valley, which allows us to contemplate modern civil engineering works up close, passing beneath various viaducts of the A6. We will go through towns such as Pereje, Trabadelo, Portela, Ambasmestas, Vega de Valcarce, Ruitelán, and Herrerías. In the ascent towards the port, we find La Faba and Laguna de Castilla, the last town in the province. In the ascent, we will begin to see where we will be walking next: the Galician mountain ranges and tunnel-shaped paths formed by tree-tops.
Pereje
Services: overseas assistance, bar-restaurant.
There was a lodge that caused disputes between the Abbey Cebreiro and the Cluny monks from Villafranca. The lodge dates at least to 1168.
Trabadelo
Services: bar-restaurant.
The 18th century church is dedicated to Saint Nicolas of Bari, a saint closely linked to the Road. In the outskirts, on Adáres Hill, one can find the ruins of the castle of Autares, Castro de Veiga. From here, its lord charged toll fees from the pilgrims. These tolls were abolished by Alfonso VI in 1072.
Portela de Valcarce
Services: bar-restaurant.
Its name indicates that it’s the doorway to this lovely valley. In the town’s temple, we can see an altarpiece from the 17th century.
Ambasmestas
Services: overseas assistance, bar-restaurant.
Its name comes from the fact that Balboa and Valcarce’s waters join here. Roman presence in the area. We can see ruins of the ancient road, and a bridge with three arches.
Vega de Valcarce
Services: cash machine, pharmacy, repair workshop, overseas assistance, medical assistance (day), bakery, bar-restaurant.
This is the most important town in the whole valley. In 1472, it was known as a Jewish settlement. The 16th century church’s patron is the Magdalena. There was a settlement of Templars that protected the road. The Sarracín castle dominates the town. It seems to be from the 15th century.
Ruitelán
Services: overseas assistance, bar-restaurant.
It has a church dedicated to Saint John from the 15th century, as well as Saint Stephen chapel where Saint Foilan lived, a hermit from Lugo, who became bishop of León and today is patron saint of both cities.
Las Herrerías
Services: overseas assistance, bar-restaurant.
Its name is an allusion to the existence of iron transformation installations during the Middle Ages, from the 12th century on, as recounted by the pilgrim Laffi in the 17th century. Here we find the author of the communal agricultural field concept, the renowned don Suero, the challenger represented on the bridge that crosses the Orbigo. The church dominates the hill. Inside, one can find a 16th century Christ. Upon leaving, by following the indications, we find the English lodge, which has been related with the English monarch Henry II’s wish to travel to Santiago.
Faba
Services: bar-restaurant.
Here we find the symbol of the pilgrim shell on the church façade, dedicated to Saint Andrew. It houses Baroque altarpieces. It was the last temple of the Astorgan diocese.
La Laguna de Castilla
Services: bar-restaurant.
This rural population center shows us just how close Galician land is. Here, we bid farewell to the province of León, which has contained the longest stretch of the royal road since we entered Spain. The town now depends ecclesiastically on the diocese of Lugo.
O Cebreiro
Services: cash machine, bar-restaurant.
First town on the Galician route that will lead us to Santiago. |
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